Cartagena is heat, color, chaos, calm—and everything in between. Even though I was born in Colombia, returning this time as a traveler gave me a whole new perspective. I stayed one night at Eteka (an eco-luxury beach stay just 18 minutes from the mainland) and a few nights at the stunning Sofitel Santa Clara. In between, I soaked up all the flavors, history, and glow Cartagena had to offer.
Here’s everything I experienced—and everything I wish I’d known sooner.
One Night in Paradise: Eteka Beach Club
Located on Isla Tierra Bomba, Eteka feels worlds away but is just a short boat ride from Cartagena. They pick you up at the Muelle Privado Bodeguita, across from Gate #1. Once you arrive, the energy shifts completely.
We stayed in the beachfront suite, with a hammock inside the bedroom—no joke. The décor is eco-luxe: wood, neutrals, and open-air details. At night, there’s a live saxophone performance and DJ on Saturdays. During the day, you can paddleboard, nap in a hammock, or float in silence.
We paid 1,150,000 COP (approx. $290 USD) per night for two people. That includes breakfast: coffee or tea, natural juice, fruit plate, bread basket, and a hot dish of your choice. Breakfast is served from 7:00–10:00 AM.
Bring your passport, or they may try to charge you the 19% IVA tax.% IVA tax. Foreigners who present a valid passport with an entry stamp can request an exemption.
Sofitel Santa Clara: Classic Cartagena Luxury
This hotel is iconic for a reason. Think: old convent architecture meets French elegance. We stayed a few nights here and, honestly, it was worth every peso.
Rooms run around $500 USD per night dinner for four (including wine) came out to about 1,200,000 COP (~$300 USD). The breakfast is worth waking up for, and the courtyard alone is a full mood.
Where to Eat in Cartagena
Cartagena’s upscale dining scene is strong. These are the spots that stood out:
- Celele – An award-winning fine dining restaurant celebrating Colombian ingredients in modern ways. Every plate is intentional.
- Cande – Caribbean flavors, live music, and a warm ambiance. A full experience, not just a meal.
- Alma – Inside Casa San Agustín. Beautifully plated dishes, candlelight, and refined local flavors.
- Carmen Cartagena – Modern Colombian cuisine with tasting menus and top-notch cocktails.
- El Gobernador by Rausch – Elegant seafood and Colombian fusion in a chic space.
- La Cevichería – Iconic and a bit touristy, but the seafood is ultra-fresh and totally worth it.
- La Vitrola – A classic, old-world vibe with live Cuban music and excellent service.
- El Baluarte – Sunset views on the city wall, chill music, and great cocktails. Try the “Made in Colombia” drink.
Must-Try Local Dishes
- Pescado frito – Fried whole fish, crispy and flavorful
- Arroz con coco – Sweet coconut rice that pairs perfectly with seafood
- Patacón – Fried green plantain, golden and crunchy
- Arepa con huevo – Cornmeal cake stuffed with egg, a famous street snack
Currency, Tipping & Payments
- The official currency is Colombian pesos (COP).
- Exchange rate was $3,943.67 COP = $1 USD during my trip.
- I always pay in pesos using a credit card, which automatically does the conversion. It’s safer and more cost-effective than cash exchange.
- Gratuity is often included (“servicio incluido”), but it’s pooled and distributed monthly among staff. If someone gave great service, tip them directly in cash.
- Cash is a must for small vendors—always carry some with you.
Getting Around Cartagena
You can rent a car (about $235 USD for 5 days), but:
- Parking is limited and often far.
- It usually costs around 7,000 COP ($2 USD).
- Traffic is chaotic, and motorcycles dominate the road.
- Motorcycle drivers are everywhere and often drive aggressively.
Taxis are easier:
- From the airport to the Historic Center, expect to pay $20,000–30,000 COP (~$5–8 USD).
- Always negotiate the fare upfront—most cabs don’t use meters.
- I recommend Splitwise for tracking shared expenses if traveling with friends.
Places to Explore:
Beyond the food, Cartagena is full of colorful moments and photo-worthy spots:
- Getsemaní – Graffiti art, music, and laid-back charm. Perfect for wandering.
- Centro Histórico – Colonial architecture, pretty balconies, and pastel doors.
- San Felipe Castle – A historic fortress with sweeping views of the city.
- Barú + Rosario Islands – For beach club day passes or overnight stays. Expect to pay around 350,000 COP for a day pass or Eteka-style rates for luxury overnights.
Best Photo Spots
- With the Palenqueras (fruit ladies) – Tip them! They expect it.
- Bougainvillea balconies in Centro
- Sunset from El Baluarte
- Getsemaní murals
- Santa Clara courtyard
- Eteka’s beachfront at golden hour
What to Pack
- SPF 50+ (and reapply!)
- Mosquito repellent (essential for island stays)
- Lightweight, breathable clothing
- Sandals and something dressy
- Sunglasses, sunhat
- Swimsuit (always)
- Filtered or bottled water (don’t drink tap)
- Google Translate – Most locals only speak Spanish
- Zip-up bag for liquids (carry-on travelers)
- Passport for IVA exemption
What to Avoid or Be Aware Of
- Don’t drink tap water (even at restaurants).
- Don’t forget your passport at check-in—bring it to avoid IVA tax.
- Don’t walk alone at night outside tourist zones.
- Skip unverified street vendors offering “tour deals.”
- Watch for aggressive motorcycle taxis and sales pitches in Centro.
- Don’t assume tips are included—ask if “servicio está incluido.”
Final Word
Cartagena is the kind of place that lingers long after you leave. It’s bold, beautiful, and layered—ready to meet you wherever you are. Whether you’re sipping cocktails on the city wall, floating off a beach in Barú, or wandering the streets of Getsemaní, there’s something here for every kind of traveler.
Go with an open heart. Let it enchant you.
Planning a trip? Save this guide for later and share it with your travel buddy. Your glow (and your skin) will thank you.
XO, Selina
